Newry City 1 Warrenpoint Town 1
Northern Ireland Premiership
Crossmaglen was the posting that filled every British
soldier with dread.
During the Troubles, the small border town and unofficial
capital of South Armagh was a base for the military, chosen largely due to the
fact that the South Armagh Brigade of the IRA was the most fearsome of them all,
reportedly at the centre of every major plot and campaign, they needed to be
both watched and ideally eliminated.
It was far from simple though, this was a highly skilled,
technologically advanced and motivated organisation. A Captain within the
Parachute Regiment said of South Armagh in a memoir…
“I got the feeling of being one of those shooting gallery
targets that go round on a conveyor belt, endlessly waiting for someone to
knock you down. South Armagh, still light years away from civilisation, still
living in the dark ages, where barbarity and cruelty are the prime factors of a
successful life. Where stealing and killing are as natural a part of living as
breathing is to most of us.”
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The Square - Iconic Place Names From A Troubled Era |
Crossmaglen, or XMG as it is known, was a place of severe
hostility, isolation and a constant threat of death. Soldiers on patrol were
briefed on the fact that every milk churn, gorse bush, stone wall or bale of
hay could contain a bomb, while the threat of the sniper was very real.
It was all very real indeed, South Armagh or ‘Bandit
Country’ as it became referred to following comments made by then Northern
Ireland Secretary Merlyn Rees, from 1971 saw the deaths of 123 soldiers, 42
Police Officers and 75 civilians. It is also reported that South Armagh saw
1255 bomb attacks and 1158 shooting incidents during the period of the
Troubles.
Road travel became too dangerous so movement could only be
made via helicopter. Watchtowers were erected, while part of the Crossmaglen
Rangers Gaelic Football ground was occupied by the army base. Soldiers who
patrolled ‘Cross’ did so in fear of the Armalite and the bomb.
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A Tribute |
My fascination with Ulster and the Troubles started when I
made my first visit to Derry in 2005. I began to read, I began to watch archive
footage, I also began to wonder whether it would be possible to pay South
Armagh a visit.
As the years went by, bearing in mind most of my trips
centred around football, I was of the view that I’d probably struggle to do it.
To be fair, part of me as well was a little bit nervous. I’ve had zero problems
in Republican areas of the North in all the times I’ve been, but South Armagh
and XMG in particular, well that for me was another level.
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The IRA Volunteers |
A plan came together quickly though. I was all set to travel
up to Derry on the Friday night for the game against Shamrock Rovers, but as is
sometimes the case, the game got moved and I had to find an alternative. That
alternative was the Mourne Derby between Newry City and Warrenpoint Town, and
to be honest I was quite happy with that because I really liked Newry when I
made my one and only previous visit, around the time of the ash cloud crisis
because I recall it being touch and go as to whether I made it or not.
However, I would be in Newry at 10am, and as much as I like
the City, I was going to struggle to find too much to do to fill the time, and
that was when the cogs started to turn and I started to do a bit of research.
The number 42 bus from Newry gets into Crossmaglen in just short of an hour,
and if I caught the 11am, I would get a couple of hours in the town before the
return. It was on, it was a reality, it was time to do a bit more research.
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Crossmaglen Rangers |
I’m not sure how many people have ever typed into Google ‘Is
Crossmaglen safe for a British person’ but I did it, and to be fair, it all
seemed pretty positive on the whole. Clearly don’t go around waving a Union
Jack or singing God Save The Queen, but otherwise if I kept myself to myself
all would be fine.
The 11am bus wasn’t especially busy as it weaved its way
through the stunning countryside, with views of Slieve Gullion and the
surrounding mountains dominating the landscape. We travelled through
Mullaghbawn, Forkhill and Silverbridge, while at one point due to a closed
road, we crossed the Irish border briefly and were in the Republic.
Crossmaglen was reached in good time, and it was pretty
quiet in the famous Cardinal O’Fiaich Square where a British Military Sangar
used to be located (and set on fire when a tanker sprayed paraffin over it
having been moved into place by a tractor). I made my way across the Square and
went to the Crossmaglen Rangers gaelic grounds, the home of one of the most
successful club sides the island has ever produced. After a look at the
impressive facilities, I then made my way across the top of the Square and took
a walk down to the PSNI Station, which is as fortified as you will see with
huge metal walls and high security features.
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A Small Piece Of Great Britain Sits Behind |
I did want to visit a few pubs, but not before checking out
the memorials and statue in and around the Square. Republicanism is celebrated,
and key players are remembered. Crossmaglen may be Northern Ireland on the map,
but this is the Republic in realty.
The Cross Square Hotel was doing a decent trade with
lunches, and perhaps is testimony to the times that visitors choose to stay in
the town, while the Clarnagh Maid was your typical Irish pub, with plenty of
craic to be had. But it was while in Murtagh’s that I got talking to the owner,
and he was inquisitive as to my presence in Crossmaglen. It seems that anyone
who isn’t a local is treated with an element of suspicion, for one principal
reason right now, Brexit.
Journalists from all across Europe have been flooding to
border towns like Cross to get soundbites, to get the real story of what a
change to the border status may mean to them. Aidan Murtagh doesn’t do
interviews, but as he said to me,
“We didn’t want to leave as a nation (Northern Ireland), but
we have no choice. You have to remember, almost every road from this town leads
to a border, and I honestly don’t know how this is going to end up.”
Aidan grew up during the Troubles and remembered it well,
“It was just how life was, you didn’t know any different.
The good thing is though, many of our children have no idea what it was like,
they might read about it in history books, but that time was a World away. They
simply cannot comprehend Crossmaglen being as it was, they only see the now.”
With a sense of fulfillment, it was back to Newry and time to
check in to my base before the big game. It was to be the first time the two
clubs had met in the top flight of Irish football, and dubbed the ‘Mourne
Ultimatum’, it was time to see who would get the ‘Mourne Supremacy’. The local
papers were loving it with headlines as such, this was big news in the
locality.
Pre-match latch lifters were taken before the walk through
the centre of the City and down by the side of the River to the Showgrounds, which
sits within an industrial estate that’s just off the main road to Warrenpoint
itself.
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Newry Showgrounds |
Next to the Showgrounds is the fantastic Parc Eisler, the
home of Newry Shamrocks GAA club, and also the base for Down GAA, the floodlights
were on and a smattering of spectators were entering for what looked like an
underage game taking place.
Newry’s story is an interesting one. Formed as Newry Town in 1918, the club
changed its name to Newry City in 2004 thanks to City status being awarded. The club joined the Northern Irish League
in
1983, having a successful period that culminated in European football in the
late nineties, but beyond that the club suffered a decline in fortunes. Finally
relegated in 2011, the club dropped into the First Division, and then following
an expensive court case brought about by a former Manager, the club were issued
with a winding up petition on the eve of the 2012-13 season, found themselves suspended
and then ultimately, dissolved.
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Away End |
The majority of the players found a new club, somewhat
ironically in the shape of Warrenpoint Town, hence one of the reasons how they
have managed to move up four divisions in double quick time, but while the
players were going down the road, Newry City AFC was being formed. Starting in
the Mid-Ulster League in 2013-14, they quickly moved up the pyramid and last
season they won promotion to the Premiership, a fourth promotion in five years!
So it was show time
in the Showgrounds, and I would estimate a crowd of over 1,000 were present to
watch it take place, possibly pushing towards 1,500. It’s a cracking ground as
well, on entering the car park from the road, the clubhouse is to the right and
on the night did a very brisk trade, with the Dundalk v Cork City LOI game on
the television as a bonus. Dundalk is only twelve miles away.
Once through the turnstiles, to the right is an area of
covered terrace that sits next to a building with a viewing gallery at the top
(corporate hospitality?). The building is directly behind the goal, and then an
open area leads round the far corner before some terracing runs the entire
length of the pitch. A disused stand sits in the middle of it, and is something
of a relic of a bygone era.
Behind the top goal is a smart new stand, with seats at the
front and some flat standing to the rear, this is the designated away end which
was occupied by the Warrenpoint fans, numbering a couple of hundred I would
guess.
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Relics Of Bygone Times - With The Lights Of Parc Eisler Behind |
Moving onto the South side of the ground is a steep seated
stand picking out NCFC in the blue and white seats, while next to it is a
further area of quite shallow covered terracing set quite a way back from the
pitch, The refreshment kiosk and a club shop then take us back to the
turnstiles again.
So what about the game? To be honest it certainly didn’t
live up to the hype and chances were few and far between in a tight and cagey
first period, but moments after the break it was the hosts that made the breakthrough
when Jimmy Walker despatched a penalty that was awarded for a clear foul.
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The Kop |
Newry had chances to make the game safe, but, as the game
moved towards its conclusion, Warrenpoint with nothing to lose threw men
forward. Corners were won as Newry dug deep but then as the game moved into
stoppage time, Phillip Donnelly got his head onto a cross and tucked the ball
into the bottom corner. It was pandemonium in front of the visiting fans, but silence
engulfed the previously noisy home support, indeed, the constant drumming came
to an abrupt halt!
So that was it, and at the final whistle we all meandered
off in our own directions, I chose to make the 45 minute walk from the very
South of the City to the very North where my Hotel was located. I made it well
in time for a couple more beverages and a chance to reflect on a fantastic day
in Newry and indeed in the notorious South Armagh.
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Casual Culture |