Derry City 0 Shamrock Rovers 0
League of Ireland – Premier Division
To understand my Derry City story, I have to take you back
to February 2005.
I’d been on a mission in the 2004-05 season, a mission to
write a book as a gift for my Father who was due to retire after 34 years with
the NHS in the May.
The book was essentially a travelogue of a journey through a
football season, it was to contain over 100 games, most of which were first
time visits to the venues. It had got to around the February time and I was starting to think about finishing the season on a high, and doing something
special to finish the book.
I considered various Cup Finals, but none of them really
filled me with much inspiration, but then after a heavy night of consumption, I
found myself drifting in and out of sleep one Saturday morning.
At some point
as I was somewhere between states of consciousness I was having a kind of dream
/ flashback to my childhood, and a poster I had on my bedroom wall.
I had numerous posters on bedroom wall as a child, all of which
came from Shoot Magazine, but one caused me more curiosity than all of the
others. You see, I supported Derby County, but I’d never heard of a team called
Derby City, who played in red and white stripes?
I did what all kids did, summoned my Mother to the room and
sought her clarification.
“It’s not Derby City, it’s Derry City, they’re from Ireland,
and it’s the place where your Grandad Jim came from.”
The New Mark Farren Stand |
Suddenly it all became clear, and I’d not given it another
moments thought, until that Saturday morning. That poster, and Derry City were emblazoned
on my mind, it was time to just consider things for a few moments.
I’d never really thought an awful lot about Grandad Jim, he
died not long after I was born, but I did know he was an Irishman from Derry.
Possibilities were now churning away in my mind. Did Derry City still exist,
did they have any games at the end of the season, how easy would it be to go
over, was it safe? If this was feasible, then I could have inadvertently found
the perfect ending to the book.
Armed with a cup of coffee, I turned on the computer and
entered the magic words into the search engine, and up came a website for Derry
City Football Club. So at least they existed, but what about fixtures? The season
was over, but a new one was to begin in March, Summer football it appeared, and
when I studied the fixtures, the game against St Patrick’s Athletic on the 20th
May looked like the best option.
Now, you have to remember at this point in my life I’d not
been out of the Country for several years, I didn’t have a Passport, and the
furthest I’d ever travelled on my own was to Bournemouth for a training course!
After lots of research I managed to put a trip together,
flights from Liverpool to Belfast International, two nights in the Travelodge,
and a Passport was ordered. That was the logistics sorted, but I had other
stuff to do as well.
A Packed Brandywell |
Firstly I needed to make sure I could actually get in to
watch the game, so I rung the club and they were very helpful, I could buy
tickets on the day, and get a tour of the ground if I turned up early enough!
Secondly, and I needed my Mum’s input with this, I wanted
to find my Grandad’s family home, so it meant doing some delving around to find
an address. Mother came up with the goods, but it would be a case of trial and
error when I arrived in Derry, you see it was before the days of Google Maps
and a street map proved almost impossible to obtain.
Finally, was it safe? Of course, I was naïve at the time,
but when you thought of Derry your mind immediately went back to the images of
the Troubles. The Good Friday agreement had been signed, but even so, Northern
Ireland was still tainted in the minds of many from across the water. My Mum was nervous about me going, but she knew my mind was made up. I did as much
homework as I could, spoke to one or two people, and the consensus was that as
long as I kept myself to myself and was careful where I went, then I would be
fine.
The trip finally arrived, and it was with a sense of excitement
and trepidation that I made my way from the Railway Station, over the Craigavon
Bridge and then along the edges of the River Foyle to my base. The first night
was spent touring one or two watering holes, but the following day it was when
the real adventure was about to start.
Where Terraces Once Stood |
With ticket secured from the Brandywell along with a brief, I followed the
signs to the Rosemount area of the City, the area where my Grandad’s former home
was. I had a street name, Epworth Street, but finding it was going to be a
challenge, or so I thought. Once at the
top of the hill, I turned right at the roundabout, simply because I saw a
dustbin lorry and thought they would know where I could find it.
I didn’t need the dustmen, because within moments on my left
I’d stumbled across the road I was looking for. I walked down the road and
there it was, number 23, my Grandad’s home. Since he moved over in the Forties
to England, to the best of our knowledge I was the first and only person who’s been
back across from the family. I paused for a few minutes, took some photographs
before walking away with a sense of emotion and euphoria. I phoned my Mum….
I spent the rest of the day wandering the City, immersing
myself in the history of its violent, troubled and tragic recent past. The murals and indeed
the memorials were awe inspiring, but at the same time, this was a City and a
population that was at the start of a journey, one that was uncertain, but a
journey towards something better for everyone.
After nervously ordering a pint at the Oakgrove Bar with my
English accent, it was time for the game, and it was then that I truly realised
that I’d not just been on a trip, I’d been on a discovery. I’d discovered
Derry, I’d discovered the Brandywell, I’d discovered Derry City and I’d
discovered something that was to ultimately became a life changing experience.
Paradise |
The game ended 2-2, but for me it was about the quite brilliant
atmosphere inside the Brandywell. The passion, the noise and the creativity
blew me away. This was a proper football club, with proper fans, and I felt
part of it.
Of course, the book was completed, the ending was perfect.
My Dad was stunned by it, but that book had inadvertently opened a new chapter.
We both went over to see a game and visit the City a year
later, but it coincided with a period where things were really starting to happen for City on the field. I saw
the away games in Europe at Paris and Gretna, the Gretna game being possibly
the single most amazing football game and experience I’ve ever witnessed.
Whereas it was while in Paris that I met John Coyle and his family, we have
remained good friends ever since. I also met Martin McGuinness on the same trip outside Quigley's Point, and what an engaging man he was, he seemed really interested in my story.
I ended up being invited to write an article for the City View match
programme, and I also attended a few away games as well, notably at Cork City and at
Linfield, which was an experience in itself.
Nowadays, I try to go twice a season, typically with a view
to getting to a game in the Northern Irish League on the Saturday, with City
playing on a Friday night. I was at the infamous first game in Buncrana that
was abandoned due to floodlight failure,
whereas the year previously my now wife Rachael made her first visit to the
Maiden City and the Brandywell.
This time around, it was about returning to the Brandywell
after the recent redevelopment work, a new stand has been built and an
artificial pitch laid, so my plans were made.
It follows a familiar pattern now, flight to Belfast City,
212 bus to Derry, lunch, a few pubs, including Jacks Bar where I’ve struck up a
connection with the lad who runs the place, before checking into my regular
B&B that sits less than fifty yards from my Grandad’s old place.
Then it’s about meeting John and his wife Lyndon at
Sandinos, before we head off together for something to eat and then finally the
match.
Derry have had a very good season, sitting fourth in the
table, despite a poor start, and with visiting Shamrock Rovers only just behind
them in the standings, demand for tickets was high. I’d bought mine online the
week before, but as kick off approached it was being reported the game was close
to being a sell-out.
A near capacity crowd of 3,700 packed into a Brandywell
Stadium that is looking very smart following it’s make over. The old Southend
Road Stand remains, with the away fans tucked into the corner, and it was next
to them we were sat. Both ends remain inaccessible but the new stand, named after
centre forward Mark Farren who passed away in 2016, is an impressive
structure. It is possible for spectators to stand at either side of the stand,
but ultimately the Brandywell is on its way to becoming an all-seater stadium.
A Shams Fan - He Spent Eighty Minutes Asleep |
To be honest, it wasn’t a very good game. The first half was
not overly inspiring, but in the second period it was the hosts from Dublin who
had the upper hand and to be fair they’ll be kicking themselves for not having
broken the deadlock as chances came and went begging. Derry, in the end, were
grateful for a point.
The Shamrock Rovers players came over at the final whistle to salute
their travelling fans, and what a truly delightful bunch they were! After
spending the game reminding us that we were indeed British and had a Queen to
bow down to, they finished the night by stealing the Derry goalkeeper’s
testimonial banner, and then having the audacity to display it on social media.
I’ve seen Shamrock Rovers play away from home on three
occasions now, and never do things ever run smoothly or peacefully when they
are in town, but the less perhaps said the better, because this is about Derry.
After the game it was back to Jack’s Bar, with John, to chew
the fat, catch up on life, and talk about Derry, Ireland and what the future
looks like. Brexit is a concern, especially the border issue, while debate
about a United Ireland never seems to be far away.
Derry is a very different City to the one I first
discovered. The British Army watchtowers have now gone and much of the paramilitary
imagery and graffiti has also been dialed down. Derry is now marketing itself,
very successfully, as a tourist hotbed, and it’s great to see so many tourists,
especially foreign tourists on the Walls, at the Murals and in the Museums. Derry is a very safe City nowadays.
Also, you sense the City is more at peace. Not just in terms
of the violence, but also in terms of its history. The Saville Report
exonerated those murdered on Bloody Sunday, and while closure for some will not
truly happen while soldiers remain untried, you do sense a population who have
started to move forward and live together harmoniously. There will always be
factions, but in reality, no one wants a return to the bad old days.
I left Derry on the 212 the following morning for the next
leg of the journey, but part of me will always stay behind, part of me will
always be a Derryman.
The Ejection Steward Ponders Which One First..... |